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kate moss

Model Kate Moss in 1993.
Photo: MTV

Season: 5 Episode: 19
Title: Winter Edition
Original Airdate: 1/21/93
Appearances: Kate Moss, Todd Oldham

RISE OF THE SUPERMODEL: KATE MOSS

Kate Moss’s arrival on the scene marks the fashion industry’s response to the grunge movement that dominated youth culture and music at the time. The doe-eyed British waif was notable not only because she was antithetical to the buxom, bodacious, big-haired glamour of the supermodels who came before, but because she stood at just 5’6”—a height that was widely considered undesirable in her line of work. The notable thing about Kate (and, of course, the passage of time and her relevance throughout the next decades would prove as much) is that she did not pave the way for a generation of shorter girls: Kate Moss was the exception and an outlier. Another effect of her stature within the industry is that she couldn’t typically be shot for campaigns and fashion editorial flanked by a pack of other girls. In any iconic “here are all the supermodels” round-up shot by Steven Meisel or the like, Moss would look odd, and was therefore frequently shot by herself, which only contributed to her air of vulnerability and her persona as a loner. The CK One group shot ads are obviously the exception, though it should be considered how stark the campaign is and how much the other models featured therein are similarly waifish and un-modelly.

Some argue that Kate Moss does not qualify as a supermodel (and the debate as to who coined the phrase and whether it stretches back far enough to include Lauren Hutton, or extends forward to members of later generations, like Gisele Bündchen still rages) but if you define the term based on money earned, status achieved, and impact, Kate absolutely qualifies. Her ascension represents a critical turning point and redefined ’90s beauty. She is the line between grunge and glamour. In this introductory segment, Kate smiles goofily, talks about how her shoulders are her best feature and how she didn’t get to hang out with Mark Wahlberg during the CK jeans shoot because his "posse" was there the entire time. She is also one of the few fledgling models who does not seem intimidated by any other models, established or otherwise.

+ WATCH KATE MOSS

DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: TODD OLDHAM TAKES US THRIFT SHOPPING

todd oldham thrift store

Designer and 'House of Style' correspondent Todd Oldham goes thrift store shopping in 1993.
Photo: MTV

As with the furniture in the earlier installment, Todd’s attitude is irreverent and inventive toward the clothes he thinks teens should be wearing. It’s reassuring once again that a world-renowned designer is giving kids the greenlight to shun brands and expensive gear; at one point, Todd even says that thrift-store finds could be considered analogous to couture because time has guaranteed that they’re one-of-a-kind. Todd suggests starting in the department that is your favorite, and looking for signs like empty hangers to see what others have “stashed” on the floor directly underneath. For the ladies, he suggests shopping in the men’s and little boys’ department and advises dudes to “paper bag” their pants and opt for a much larger waist size than they’d typically wear. A quick tutorial on “how to layer,” and why you shouldn’t be afraid to buy suits and discard the undesirable top or bottom ends the segment—but not before Todd instructs us to do our own alterations: Nobody cares if you screw up your own inexpensive stuff.

+ WATCH TODD OLDHAM GOES THRIFT SHOPPING

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: GRUNGE ON THE RUNWAY

runway chanel

Highlights from the Spring 1993 runway shows.
Photo: MTV

The ’70s look is still going strong, with platforms, wedges, berets, crochet dusters, bell bottoms and hot pants. But there's a notable migration into grunge with beanies, loose jackets, Dr. Martens boots, teeny-tiny eyebrows and stripes aplenty. There is slouchy sleepwear at Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs (SUCH A PIVOTAL COLLECTION!!!), straggly lank hair at Calvin Klein. Millinery is all over the place from gigantic velvet “Blossom” hats to a straw pith helmet contraption at Byron Lars that is highly evocative of the black “Darth Vader” visor shown for 2012 by Nicolas Ghesqueire for Balenciaga that retailed for a cool $3,000. Details, people, details.

+ WATCH SPRING '93 RUNWAY WRAP-UP

+ WATCH MODELS RELAX BACKSTAGE

+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 19

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cindy crawford onyx

Cindy Crawford goes grocery shopping with Sticky Fingaz, Big DS and Suave of Onyx in 1993.
Photo: MTV

Season: 5 Episode: 25
Title: Back To School Edition
Original Airdate: 8/18/93
Appearances: Big DS, Sticky Fingaz and Suavé (Onyx), Todd Oldham, Carol Shaw

MUSIC AND FASHION: CINDY GOES GROCERY SHOPPING WITH ONYX

Cindy and a Fredro Starr-less Onyx go grocery shopping at a health food store. This is a segment created to educate college kids about nutrition so that they can avoid gaining the 15-20 pounds that we all inevitably gain that first year because class feels entirely optional and eating a chimichanga at 4 AM seemed like a good idea at the time. There are interstitials, with nutritionist Jennifer Stack, advising us against believing claims made on the front of pre-packaged food, and advising viewers to refer to the side panel for concrete nutritional information. Stack also suggests eating dry cereal as a snack, and seeking out pre-washed, pre-cut vegetables. It’s all pretty straightforward and ’90s. So, like, circa when everybody ate carbs.

Cindy and Onyx eat Fig Newtons because they have zero fat (ahem: despite the sugar content). At one point, Sticky Fingaz mentions that the store’s Corn Flakes and Cheerios are fake: They’re the small-box organic kind called “Oatios” that you often see at stores that feature juice bars. On that topic, Cindy drags Suavé, Sticky and the late Big DS to try shots of wheatgrass juice. Despite all the health benefits, the three pass on doing the shot and fake Cindy out, who drinks hers. While I understand that the segment is designed to appeal to college-aged teens by touting a healthy message from their favorite rappers, the piece feels disjointed. These guys could care less about fondling gourds at the health food store. The highlight is when Cindy blots Sticky Fingaz’s T-zone. It’s very stage mom in the best way.

+ WATCH CINDY CRAWFORD SHOPS WITH ONYX

DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: WHITE SHIRTS

white shirts chanel

White shirts on the runway at Chanel in 1993.
Photo: MTV

Fall 1993 is just like every other season since time immemorial in that white shirts are a big deal. These white shirts feature hints of the ’60s and ’70s: billowing, off-the-shoulder poet blouses with exaggerated, pointy collars that harken back to polyester leisure suits. French cuffs were also huge, as was layered suiting. This was a season for white shirts with vests; and suit-weight, sleeveless dresses with thick straps worn over them. We run the gamut from tunic-length tops with belts and a harlequin shirt from Dolce & Gabbana that features a massive Elizabethan ruff (on the lovely Kate Moss) from the other collection they design, Complice. We see offerings from Byron Lars, Rifat Ozbek, Atsuro Tayamo, Chanel, and Todd Oldham: They’re accessible and easy to mimic, and the key here is understanding how each shirt is styled and how the different silhouettes and design features are accentuated to create a high-fashion twist on a staple.

+ WATCH WHITE SHIRTS

DEMOCRATIZING SYLE: A BACK TO SCHOOL WARDROBE FOR $1.98

todd oldham

Designer and 'House of Style' correspondent Todd Oldham makes accessories for less than $1.98 in 1993.
Photo: MTV

It’s both laudable and laughable that House of Style gave Todd a budget of $2.00 to remix a fall wardrobe. It’s sort of like Rachael’s Ray’s “40 Dollars a Day,” in which she barely leaves a tip and never, EVER has a cocktail, because the $1.98 does not include things like whole sweaters, boots, and a hacksaw. What it does include is a slew of Sharpies, embroidery thread, beets (yup, like the kind for borscht) and a great deal of pluck and adorable ingenuity.

This particular “Todd Time” feels like we’re playing a practical joke on him, and to his credit, he creates some fascinating fashion and does lay groundwork for some ideas that you can apply to pretty much any item of clothing. There is a patchwork sweater created out of 5 other sweaters (that this fits the $1.98 budget is totally lol); given how huge patchwork was as a trend in the ’90s, it’s not a bad idea. Cutting up ill-fitting or moth-eaten sweaters in large pieces (the key being to cut an entire chest section and part of an armscye so that you don’t actually have to construct a sweater out of small swatches) and sewing them together in a large, looping, visible stitches creates a sort of frankensweater that you can at the very least guarantee no one else will have. An errant piece with arms makes a giant, floppy beanie that sort of looks like those tie-top Triple 5 Soul hats. A hacksaw applied to a pair of boots creates a rather "bless-its-heart" looking, peep-toe-boot-flip-flop situation, and bisected beets dye pink polka dots onto an old striped button-down. Sharpie squiggles finish off the look, and the whole thing is plunged into salted water for the vegetable dye to set. A backpack gets zipper pulls made out of twigs. For your efforts, the end result evokes a very crafty hobo.

+ WATCH TODD OLDHAM ACCESSORIES

DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: BACK TO SCHOOL MAKEUP

carol shaw

Makeup artist Carol Shaw demonstrates back-to-school makeup tips in 1993.
Photo: MTV

The entire back-to-school episode feels very much like a teen magazine except that here we get to see real professionals bringing the lessons to life with moving images. Makeup artist Carol Shaw holds our hand and walks us through a series of small, manageable info nuggets on how to apply different cosmetics. Carol is also the founder of the makeup company Lorac (“Carol” backwards) that’s still popular today, but her tips are wholly product agnostic.

Carol suggests fragrance-free products, and instructs us on how to bend the wand of a new tube of Maybelline Great Lash so that you can pile it on with more accuracy. She also advises us to smile while applying blush so that we know where it goes; she recommends light coverage on foundation because in that case (unlike mascara), less is more. She tells us that moisturizer, cleanser and toner are all you need for a skin-care regimen, as most of us already know. The one thing she teaches that’s a true boon is how to use foundation to lighten lipstick colors, and how to use the back of your hand like a painter’s mixing palette to create the hue you want. This way you can create an entire gradient of browns, peaches, pinks and reds from a single tube. Definitely handy advice for a college kid on a budget.

+ WATCH CAROL SHAW MAKEUP TIPS

+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 25

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cindy crawford jon stewart

Cindy Crawford with MTV Correspondent Jon Stewart and Director of Elite Model Management Ann Veltri in 1994.
Photo: MTV

Season: 6 Episode: 29
Title: Winter Edition
Original Airdate: 2/9/94
Appearances: Jon Stewart, Todd Oldham, Sybil Buck

POP CULTURE AND FASHION: JON STEWART AND CINDY HANG OUT

Before he was the silver fox host of The Daily Show, Jon Stewart was a big deal at MTV, helming his own eponymous talk show from 1993-1994. His time slot pitted him against late-night stalwarts like Leno and Letterman, so his run ended up being short-lived. Which is a huge shame because the show was critical for two reasons. One, it featured musical guests who at the time could not otherwise get the shine: Marilyn Manson, Sunny Day Real Estate, Ol’ Dirty Bastard, Slayer and Biggie. Another thing is that the producer of The Jon Stewart Show, Madeleine Smithberg, would go on to create The Daily Show, which has of course seen an extraordinary, award-winning run, with Stewart at the helm since Craig Kilborn peaced in the late ’90s.

In this clip, we see Jon shadowing Cindy on her errands, to comedic effect. He cracks everybody up, but it’s sorta sadface because it’s like watching some poor bastard get “friend zoned” by a hot chick who just wants a smart, funny dude to tag along behind her like some neutered lapdog. They visit Cindy’s modeling agency, Elite, where they go through Cindy’s schedule with her agent and clown around. Jon’s recognized by some of the agency’s new faces, and gets to briefly man a casting couch. The floppy-haired comic then accompanies the model to her mani/pedi appointment at Stephen Knoll. He remarks upon how absurd it is that women sit around “pruning each other” while having his feet massaged and his hands moisturized, and then they hit the gym for Cindy’s workout with trainer Radu. Medicine ball sit-ups and basketball end the day; with Jon smoking cigarettes during his crunches.

+ WATCH CINDY CRAWFORD AND JON STEWART

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: HIGHS AND LOWS OF SPRING ’94

runway spring 94

The highs and lows of the Spring '94 runway shows.
Photo: MTV

On the runways of Chloe, Byron Lars, Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Anna Sui, Marcel Marongiv, John Galliano, and Thierry Mugler, several trends are in raging for dominance. Underwear as outerwear, as seen in prior seasons, is still going strong, this time with long, spaghetti-strapped slips worn as dresses. Hair is piled high, curled and festooned with trails of ribbons. Anna Sui dominates the grunge baby doll scene with A-line mini-dresses with large collars on androgynous model (and Angelina Jolie ex) Jenny Shimizu, as well as on male models. Another male model, Donovan, does the robot on the runway in a metallic suit (also at Sui). And the late INXS frontman Michael Hutchence walks hand-in-hand with his girlfriend, Helena Christensen at Thierry Mugler. Hutchence has a large silver spike through his nose, and Christensen wears a leather bustier dress covered in spikes and fringe.

The best show is John Galliano’s (discussed at length in an earlier episode). The worst, in my personal opinion, is a rare misstep from Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. The clownishly exaggerated “hip-hop-inspired” knee shorts with suspenders are unflattering, with a voyeuristic petting-zoo philosophy that borders on racism. The hair is vexing as well: Meant to evoke natural hair that has been poorly relaxed, it just looks bedraggled and messy.

+ WATCH '94 SPRING RUNWAY SHOWS

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: TODD TEACHES US HOW TO LAYER

todd oldham

Designer and 'House of Style' correspondent Todd Oldham makes layers look cool in 1994.
Photo: MTV

Todd Oldham is a godsend. Here, he teaches us a classic “from the runway to the real world” lesson in layering, starting out with an idea from his own show. For the runway, Todd paired a cropped crochet sweater over a long, patterned georgette shirt; for an alternate version, he advises us to shop in the kid’s section of The Gap for a tiny sweater vest to wear over any filmy shirt. Next up is a nod to the Comme Des Garçons trick of putting a fitted, thin, crew-neck, long-sleeved sweater over a suit jacket or blazer to reveal the large patch pockets of the jacket that now billows out slightly at the waist.

At Rifat Ozbek, a bra is worn over a mock turtleneck to showcase “underlayering” — putting what you’d typically wear underneath over your outside clothes. A prime example of this is to put a tank top over a long-sleeved shirt. Mixing seasons is another way to rethink layers, like wearing a summer dress over a sweater or a white cotton peasant blouse over a thick wool turtleneck. It’s more instruction on how to style things you already own, using cues from your favorite designers. Todd’s cheat sheet is all about understanding proportion, a keen sense of color and a hefty dose of attitude.

+ WATCH TODD OLDHAM ON LAYERING

MODELS, THE NEXT GENERATION: SIBYL BUCK

sibyl buck

Model Sibyl Buck in 1994.
Photo: MTV

In many ways, Sibyl Buck epitomizes the lifestyle aspects of the grunge movement. Kate Moss and Amber Valletta evoke a type of stylized grunge or “fashion grunge,” with their pale skin, doe eyes and seemingly meek dispositions. The critical difference is that they were also both versatile in a way that made them aesthetically malleable depending on the job or designer.

Sibyl Buck, with her septum piercing and dreadlocked red hair, was often hired for her specific look. During a tour of her apartment, we go through her music collection; she cites The Melvins and Bad Brains as favorites. Some headbanging takes place before she shows off her overalls collection; then we’re taken up to her roof to watch her skateboard. She is very much a tomboy — all elbows and knees — and she notes that her clients hate how often she shows up for jobs with scabs all over her legs. Sibyl quit modeling in 1998 to focus on a music career: She currently plays bass for The Lonely Astronauts.

+ WATCH SIBYL BUCK

STREET STYLE: SNOWBOARDERS

snowboard style

Snowboarder style on the slopes in 1994.
Photo: MTV

In 1994, long before it was an Olympic sport, snowboarding was still very much defined as an alternative to skiing. The aesthetic, as such, was a sharp departure from neon, preppy, matching outfits, and much more closely aligned with skate clothing of the era. The jackets were oversized and the pants were “phat” (true story) to allow for layering and warmth. The really interesting part of this segment is how far technology has come since snowboarding grew as an industry. Back then, the larger clothing allowed for higher mobility, whereas contemporary textile technology allows for four-way stretch in waterproof, shell-covered fleece that’s infinitely less cumbersome and less reliant on layers.

The snowboarding kids of almost 20 years ago employ an admirable degree of DIY ingenuity to combat such functional shortcomings. They saw off the top of soft boots for added movement, layer boots, wear several mitts or “hot pads” together keep their hands warm, some layers even looking like they’re covered in duct tape. In 1994, snowboarders were still the “pirates of the mountain,” and the long-haired kids freezing their asses off definitely show a great deal of commitment.

+ WATCH SNOWBOARD STYLE

+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 29

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cindy crawford

Cindy Crawford and classmate Mike Dulin head to their 10-year high school reunion in 1994.
Photo: MTV

Season: 6 Episode: 33
Title: Fall Edition
Original Airdate: 9/21/94
Appearances: Stephane Sednaoui, Shalom Harlow

RISE OF THE SUPERMODEL: CINDY'S HIGH SCHOOL REUNION

Cindy Crawford may have risen to supermodel status, but her origins lie smack dab in the middle of an Illinois cornfield. For her ten-year high school reunion, Cindy returns to her family home in Dekalb, where Cynthia was (unsurprisingly) a fantastic student. She was on the pep club, student council and the math team; her yearbook photos reveal that she looked exactly the same in her senior year as she does at the time this segment was filmed. Her childhood friend Mike Dulin accompanies her to the dinner and dance, and everyone she talks to acts like a deer caught in headlights when faced with a camera crew. While her classmates are wearing double-breasted suits and fusty floral dresses, Cindy is wearing a spaghetti strap, bias-cut, black evening dress, and stands a foot taller than those around her. To her credit, you can tell that she wore a deliberately flattering but inconspicuous dress. At one point, she does, however, torture a male neighbor by asking if he was aware that she sunbathed nude on her roof. He’s flustered. You can tell that Cindy is as ambitious and sweet now as she was in school, but there is definitely some formality and distance due to her status. Being the most famous person to graduate from your high school may be a vindicating experience if you were bullied or otherwise unpopular, but you can tell that Cindy’s always been effortlessly well-liked, so she makes a point of saying hello to as many people as possible. It reminds us that superstars sometimes come from inauspicious places, and it’s weird to see worlds and time periods colliding. (It also makes me wonder how many of the guys bought her issue of Playboy.)

+ WATCH CINDY CRAWFORD'S HS REUNION

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: BEST AND WORST FASHION OF FALL 1994

marc jacobs

Model Niki Taylor on the Marc Jacobs runway in 1994.
Photo: MTV

Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs, and Isaac Mizrahi all show piece-dyed, hyper-colored fur coats, and accents in the form of giant fur hats, fur collars and cuffs, and earmuffs. The toasty pieces are juxtaposed with tiny slip dresses and mini-skirts, but Calvin Klein bucked the trend with hemlines skimming the knee in somber 1940s cuts. Vivienne Tam took the somewhat out-of-vogue crochet trend for a patterned “grandma’s potholder” look, and Byron Lars ended his show with models dressed in skeleton bodices with floor-length black shirts, lifted up for the dramatic surprise of grass skirts tied around their knees.

+ WATCH '94 FALL FASHION SHOWS

STREET STYLE: MIXING HIGH/LOW IN NEW YORK

dom casual

Fall fashion trends from Dom Casual in 1994.
Photo: MTV

This piece employs the New York streets as the runway, and while it includes stuff from Anna Sui and Jean Paul Gaultier, the other fashion credits are Liquid Sky, X-Girl, and magazine editor/photographer/stylist Walter Cessna’s short-lived line, Dom Casual. All three are indie labels with a renegade staff and youthful attitude. Dom Casual’s claim to fame was that the first fall collection featured clothing made from blankets allegedly stolen from American Airlines. Walter was slapped with a cease and desist, which led the company to pull its dresses from Pat Field and TG-170, a boutique on Ludlow Street. Walter had also been preparing a spring season featuring terry cloth skirts made from towels jacked from the Ritz-Carlton, which met a similar fate. The controversy hobbled the fashion company financially. Walter then pursued an illustrious career in media: He published a fashion magazine called The Key, which poked fun at New York’s Fashion Avenue. He also contributed as a writer/stylist/photographer to NY Talk, iD, Paper, The Village Voice, Interview and Elle.

The rest of the street style segment features a slew of textured accessories: corduroy house slippers, shearling shoes, and fuzzy, animal-print hats. There are cross-dressing gents in Jean Paul Gaultier, horned hats à la Jamoriquai, exaggerated collars, sweater vests, and A-line miniskirts. Fur and feather accents dominated outerwear, like marabou cuffs and jacket trims,and poufs on sweaters. Socks are pulled way up and shirts shrunken to bare the midriff. Rave culture had definitely infiltrated the downtown scene for a few years by this point, and clothing and record store Liquid Sky (where Chloë Sevigny famously worked) contributed logo tees and ripstop nylon rave pants.

+ WATCH '94 FALL FASHION TRENDS

MUSIC AND FASHION: BOSS HOG'S CRISTINA MARTINEZ AND HOLLIS QUEENS GET GIRLIE

boss hog

Hollis Queens and Cristina Martinez of Boss Hog show off sexy style in 1994.
Photo: MTV

Since this is the episode that Cindy Crawford visits her hometown, the segment starts off with her remembering how she used to sneak off to her church's cemetery to hook up with boys and ends with how she and her friends were so broke that the three of them would share fries and loiter for hours at the local McDonalds to pass time.

The middle portion of the segment shows members of the American punk blues band Boss Hog getting extra girlie in a massive hotel suite with slinky dresses, tiaras and a grip of makeup. Boss Hog was the collaborated effort of Jon Spencer (of Blues Explosion fame) and his wife Cristina Martinez (who sang vocals), Jens Jurgensen is on bass, Mark Boyce on keyboard and Hollis Queens played the drums. In this segment Cristina and Hollis have a slumber party—they have a cocktail, nosh on room service shave each other's legs, have an impromptu photo shoot and spend the night.

+ WATCH BOSS HOG MODELS PROM

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: PHOTOGRAPHER STEPHANE SEDNAOUI

stephane sednaoui

Photographer Stephane Sednaoui shoots model Shalom Harlow for French 'Glamour' in 1994.
Photo: MTV

Downtown “it” girl correspondent Zoe Cassavetes is back again, this time on location for a Stephane Sednaoui shoot in Chinatown with model Shalom Harlow. Stephane, despite never having gone to school for photography or directing, would go on to direct a ton of critically acclaimed, highly-stylized music videos for the Red Hot Chili Peppers (“Give It Away”), U2 (“Mysterious Ways”), Smashing Pumpkins ("Today”), Björk (“Big Time Sensuality,” “Possibly Maybe”), and Alanis Morissette (“Ironic”).

Stephane is obviously an eccentric and a bit of an exhibitionist. He feeds off the energy of the rubbernecking passersby while marching down Bowery in a sarong. Shalom looks similarly gonzo in this shoot for French Glamour, which is intended to look like a “Futuristic Japanese comic book.” She sports dramatic makeup, and the fashion is hyper-colored and fun.

+ WATCH STEPHANE SEDNAOUI ON SET WITH SHALOM HARLOW

+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 33

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Featured Comment

I love these two as a couple. What a festive way to celebrate two important events in their life. Mariah looks like a dream.

Posted by Journey on Mariah Carey And Nick Cannon Shut Down Disneyland To Renew Vows In Cinderella-Themed Ensembles
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