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cindy crawford

Cindy Crawford interviews photographer Gilles Bensimon at a photo shoot for 'Elle' magazine in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Season: 7 Episode: 37
Title: Romance Edition
Original Airdate: 2/14/95
Appearances: Gilles Bensimon, Bridget Hall, Morris Lapidus, Zoe Cassavetes, Adam Horovitz, Luscious Jackson, Toure

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: CINDY INTERVIEWS BRIDGET HALL, GILLES BENSIMON

By now, Cindy is a pro journo. While interviewing Bridget Hall, our host totally calls the young model out on being a hypocrite for telling girls to stay in school, since Bridget dropped out to make money. That's when things get real and they both bro down to talk about how grueling the job is.

With former Elle Magazine creative director and current America's Next Top Model photographer, Gilles Bensimon, Cindy is similarly about her business. She asks him how much control he exerts on set. He bristles at "control," explaining that his shoots are a collaborative experience and a group effort. Gilles maps out all of the looks beforehand, hiring a fit model to try on the outfits, which he then sketches to figure out if he likes the ensemble or not. This is an interesting contrast to the way Stephen Sprouse, Ellen Von Unwerth and Helmut Newton shoot.

Cindy has shot with Gilles for Elle covers before, and despite Gilles’s self-consciousness around our cameras, Cindy remarks that Gilles genuinely loves women. He looks slightly offended, as if she’s just called him pervy, but he's quickly disarmed. It’s nice to see Cindy so relaxed. Her hair is soft, she’s wearing a pastel cashmere tee with jeans, and she seems comfortable in her role as reporter. Gilles was formerly married to Elle MacPherson, but reality TV viewers may recognize him as the ex-husband to Kelly Killoren of The Real Housewives of New York City.

+ WATCH CINDY CRAWFORD INTERVIEWS GILLES BENSIMON


DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: TODD TIME WITH MORRIS LAPIDUS

todd oldham morris lapidus

Designer and 'House of Style' correspondent Todd Oldham interviews architect Morris Lapidus in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Todd continues to interview people who inspire him creatively. For this segment, he speaks to architect Morris Lapidus about his contributions to the South Beach skyline of Miami Beach. Morris, who studied architecture at Columbia, designed the Le Fountainbleu and the Eden Roc. His aesthetic has been called modern and post-modern, but for our purposes, that means swooping, curved lines, whimsical details and an exacting sense of humor. With Fountainbleu, he went “hog wild,” creating a giant curve to eschew the notion that buildings had to be rectangular.

Morris and Todd walk around Morris’s properties to pluck out details — like the bowtie pattern on floor tiles (a hat tip to Morris’s sartorial particularities), and how he hates certain patches of wallpaper for covering what was previously a beautiful mural. We already know how interior design influences Todd’s fashion designs, so it makes sense that Todd would want to talk to creators from this disciplines. Morris, who passed away in 2001, was a riot. He says he got rid of his generation's critics by outliving them, and cuts his own interview by telling us to stop rolling.

+ WATCH TODD OLDHAM TALKS ARCHITECTURE


DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: ZOE CASSAVETES AND ADAM HOROVITZ GO VALENTINE'S DAY SHOPPING FOR IONE SKYE

adam horovitz

Adam Horovitz of the Beastie Boys goes Valentine's Day shopping for his wife Ione Skye in 1995.
Photo: MTV

As a kid, I thought it was awesome that Adam Horovitz was married to actress Ione Skye. Not only was it an example of two cultural worlds colliding (music and acting), it was awesome that two cool people in large cities felt compelled to marry so young. I thought it was SO romantic (less so now, ahem...). Ione, who you’ll also recognize as a model in the X-Girl show, seems chill, and the fact that Adam is unworried about what to get her for Valentine’s Day in this clip with Zoe Cassavetes is sort of fantastic. Everyone is being normal and relatable.

Zoe, at this point of the series, is our “youth culture correspondent,” and her IRL friendship with Adam makes a trip to Frederick’s of Hollywood for lingerie infinitely less awkward or annoyingly sexxxy. A sheer white marabou-feather-trimmed bed jacket and a black, vinyl trench coat (that you can totally tell Zoe's going to go back for) are considered too racy, so they swan off to a candy store.

There will be no heart-shaped Russell Stover box for Ione. Instead, they go to a bulk candy joint and go nuts with scoopfuls of jelly beans, chocolates, a Ring pop and an Astro pop. Then there’s a quick stop into a photo printing store, where Adam gets an I Dream Of Jeannie-themed picture of himself on a mirror, and his shopping is complete. The experience is low-fi and there's nothing that Adam bought that any college or high school kid couldn’t afford. It's too bad Ione bought him a diamond-encrusted Ducati Desmosedici RR superbike! JK. She didn't do that. Especially since he sold his gold helmet to buy her the mirror.

+ WATCH V-DAY SHOPPING WITH ADAM HOROVITZ


MUSIC AND FASHION: LUSCIOUS JACKSON GOES SHOPPING

luscious jackson

Luscious Jackson and Theo Kogan of the Lunachicks at Perfidia's Hair World in New York City in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Luscious Jackson was an all-female group signed to the Beasties’ label Grand Royal. You may remember “Naked Eye,” the first single from their second album, Fever In Fever Out. Or “Here,” on the Clueless soundtrack. They disbanded only to reunite in 2011. This segment was filmed a full two years before they would hit it big in the Billboard charts in 1997, and it’s cool to see the ladies in their hometown of New York, and finding out what stores they frequent.

It’s awesome to get to see the original Perfidia’s Hair World in Patricia Field’s former location on 8th Street. The musicians are outfitted with enormous, stylized pieces: a look for a retro stewardess, rainbow layers, Wynonna Judd hair. You may recognize the aplomb and potential for humor when you realize that Perfidia of Perfidia’s Hair World was also responsible for Jerri Blank’s hair on the Amy Sedaris TV show Strangers With Candy. So classic.

We then run into the incomparable Theo Kogan of Lunachicks (and now Theo and The Skyscrapers), who looks sensational in massive strappy platform heels and socks, a tiny black and white dress, enormous red hair, and a head band that features wire bunny ears that predates Marc Jacobs’s bunny ears for Louis Vuitton, which Madonna famously wore at the 2009 Met Gala.

The group then goes thrift shopping at Housing Works, a charity shop that benefits homeless people in New York living with HIV and AIDS. The girls buy cardigans and puffy ski jackets that express their love of orange and beige. Then it’s a surprising trip to Brooks Brothers, where they pick up mixed-pattern shirts and clashing, hyper-preppy argyle sweaters, because menswear lasts longer and is often cheaper than comparable ladies’ clothes. It’s a lesson in perspective; counter-culture clothing can sometimes just be mainstream stuff flipped on its head.

+ WATCH LUSCIOUS JACKSON GOES SHOPPING


DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: AROMATHERAPY IS EN VOGUE

toure

Massage and aromatherapy with TV personality and novelist Touré in 1995.
Photo: MTV

This is a Valentine’s Day themed package on essential oils, but it’s also a reminder of how aromatherapy dominated the marketplace in the mid-‘90s. There wasn’t a gift shop in the world that didn’t sell a diffuser, and we all suddenly knew about the effects of sandalwood and what ylang ylang was. Admittedly, part of the reason why I wanted to share this footage is that it includes a very young Touré.

The Rolling Stone contributor, novelist and TV pop culture pundit learns about acupressure and reflexology from the comfort of a bathrobe and speaks in soothing tones as he is massaged in the cover of candlelight. It’s all very ’90s, back when we thought alternative therapies and not standing desks would SAVE OUR LIVES.

+ WATCH AROMATHERAPY


DEMOCRATIZING STYLE: SOFIA COPPOLA LAUNCHES MILKFED

sofia coppola

Sofia Coppola at the fashion show for her clothing line Milkfed in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Did you know that Milkfed was still being sold in Japan? No idea what the hell a Milkfed even is? Back in 1994, before she was an Oscar-winning director, Sofia launched a clothing brand. She started out with logo and graphic tees (you'll see a SUPER early version of the Che Geuvara joint in our footage) and I recall being especially fond of their tanks because there were super flattering at the arm and didn't give you armpit fat even if you were wearing the wrong bra.

Milkfed also made cut-and-sew items like A-line minis and simple pinafores and even if Sofia talks about her designing shortcomings (she does NOT consider herself a designer), this ex-Chanel intern definitely knows her audience. All of her clothes were affordable without being mainstream, like, the GAP and she simply made clothes that she and her friends liked that couldn't be found in stores. Boom.

+ WATCH SOFIA COPPOLA


+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 37

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kate moss jon stewart linda evangelista

MTV correspondent Jon Stewart backstage with models Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista at New York Fashion Week in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Season: 7 Episode: 39
Title: New York Fashion Week
Original Airdate: 4/11/95
Appearances: Jon Stewart, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Calvin Klein, Tatjana Patitz, Simon LeBon, Todd Oldham, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Elle MacPherson

DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: JON STEWART GOES BACKSTAGE AT CALVIN KLEIN

Jon Stewart is his delightful, funny self at New York Fashion Week as he goes backstage at Calvin Klein and attends rehearsal. We’ve accompanied House of Style to several Fashion Weeks in New York by now, so we have a frame of reference for how our new host is being treated. Jon is regarded with suspicion, and we seem to be getting less access than when we’re with Cindy since she often walks in the shows she covers. He interviews Calvin Klein and the designer treats the comedian like an interloper. It's not total side eye with daggers but it's definitely screw-mouth emoji.

Jon, to his credit, stays cracking the jokes, pointing out the loose butane canister among the makeup and commenting on sleeping models backstage. It’s observational humor run amok, and we don’t learn anything new or servicey but it's hilarious. Jon is bowled over, understandably, by Kate Moss, and slinks over to her and Linda Evangelista, who have cracked open a bottle of champagne to toast the end of the week. You can’t help wondering if Cindy called ahead to ask them to be nice to the new guy.

+ WATCH JON STEWART BACKSTAGE AT CALVIN KLEIN


RISE OF THE SUPERMODEL: TATJANA PATITZ

tatjana patitz

Model Tatjana Patitz at New York Fashion Week in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Tatjana Patitz talks about how she only uses nondescript duffel bags to cart her Fashion Week stuff because the fancy luggage tends to get stolen. Good tip if you had any designs on becoming a world-traveling supermodel. It’s interesting to see what a model packs since she’ll be wearing other people’s clothes for such a large part of the week, so this is a peek into what Tatjana will be wearing to dinner and parties. There are a number of pretty Tocca dresses, bright bras and Manolo heels.

So far, this episode has given us a renewed sense of how much models loathe working Fashion Week. We’ve heard countless stories about how they'd rather do editorial, how exhausted they are during show weeks and Tatjana even admits that every time she tells herself, "Never again." We shadow Tatjana at Betsey Johnson and Todd Oldham, and then follow her to events with the likes of Molly Ringwald, RuPaul and the ever-present patron saint of the rockstar supermodelizer, Simon LeBon.

+ WATCH TATJANA PATITZ


DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: HOW TO BUILD A TODD OLDHAM FASHION SHOW

todd oldham

Finale of the Todd Oldham runway show at New York Fashion Week in 1995.
Photo: MTV

Todd, ever the gracious host, opens his Fashion Week show to us with unparalleled access and hospitality. A mere 3 hours before his show, he is energized and not at all pitching a fit or freaking people around him with stressball energies the way some other designers would be. He wears a shrunken polo shirt with a long-sleeved tee underneath it and takes time out to talk to us about the months leading up to this moment. First he created the custom prints and embroideries, then he determined silhouettes, and finally he moved on to fine-tuning. There are typically 3-5 outfits per girl with a fitting for each. He shouts out his show producer Kevin Cryer, and we see the seating chart and have a new appreciation for the logistical nightmare that is a fashion show.

Twenty minutes before the show starts, Todd and Kevin go through the timing of the lights, the music and the order the girls will walk in. A quick visit to makeup with wizard Kevyn Aucoin shows us that the artist is taking brows to the next level by affixing a pair of slick, black vinyl ones on a stunningly young Tyra Banks. During Todd’s commentary about the various things that need to get accomplished, he mentions interviews that are required of him backstage, does one, and then returns to us moments before the first walk.

There’s clapping and last-minute details. Even during the walk, Todd allows our cameras to stay with him. He points out with interesting details and even has a model remove her lumpy undergarments, which he sticks into his back pocket. We’ve talked to Cindy during shows, but a designer’s stakes are different and this is the closest we’ve been to the enormous pressure.

Just minutes later it’s over. The leathers, stripes, metallic brocades, sequins and quilted satins are well-received by no less than Ivana Trump and Susan Sarandon. A broken heel sends Todd into peals of laughter. We watch models as they ask to borrow clothes for various parties, and we have a new appreciation of Todd for his kindness and cool demeanor.

+ WATCH TODD OLDHAM PUTS ON A FASHION SHOW


DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: WHAT IT'S LIKE FOR A BUYER

seventeen magazine

'Seventeen' magazine Fashion Editor Marie Moss at New York Fashion Week in 1995.
Photo: MTV

With Cindy, we’ve sat front row and learned what it’s like to wear the hat of a fashion editor, but the other person who is politically entitled to prominent placement in the seating arrangement is the buyer. Here we talk to Kim Koshiol, buyer at Bloomingdales, and compare her experiences with those of Marie Moss, the senior fashion editor at Seventeen. This is a new target age group for us, and an important one since we're MTV so it’s interesting to note how high-fashion trends are adaptable for the teen fashion world.

When shopping for a department store, the entire collection must be considered for its overall appeal, price and quality. Instead of matching themes for an editorial shoot, the line has to be featured together on the sales floor, so cohesiveness must be considered.

For the fashion editor, trends across several different designers have to gel so that story ideas can be developed throughout the season and honed through additional showroom visits. What the 16 and 17-year-old girl will take away from the runway differs from the response of an older more affluent customer and styles need to assessed based on what will trickle down.

We interview designer Yeohlee Teng, who mentions that the fashion editor and buyer work in tandem. You need the editors in order to get your message out, and you need the buyers to get the clothes out. Longevity has to be considered. Betsey Johnson has good relationships with her buyers, and though her eponymous line recently filed for bankruptcy (much to our dismay) her runway trends have always resonated with The Youngs.

Most of the trends are texturally — or color-driven — basically, nothing that can't be mimicked across price points. For fall, it’s mixed textures, matching matte with shine, leather with suede, and the color brown. Betsey, of course, bucks trends, and makes a major play for hyper-color cowgirl.

+ WATCH FASHION WEEK FOR BUYERS


RISE OF THE SUPERMODELS: FASHION CAFÉ

fashion cafe

Models Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell and Elle MacPherson at the opening of The Fashion Café in 1995.
Photo: MTV

In 1995, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington and Elle MacPherson opened a restaurant devoted to fashion in Rockefeller Center. It was during the heyday of Hard Rock, and models were still fetching multimillion-dollar deals, so it’s understandable that naming plates of shrimp after beautiful women and showing runway footage while peddling buffalo wings wasn’t immediately noticed as being a total fiasco.

We know now that the investors were shady, and a couple of years later would be indicted as money launderers, but even in food critic Ruth Reichl’s write up for the New York Times, she nails the major problem with the business model: Fashion imagery makes you feel conflicted about eating middle-of-the-road bar food and Oreo-branded cheesecake. During the launch party, we admire displays of jewelry, iconic dresses and David Copperfield’s hair while he talks about how stoked he is (UM, remember when he and Claudia were engaged for a zillion years?). Something about the intersection of these factors and a ominous quote from music and fashion legend Malcolm McLaren (i.e. “[this is] probably the end of fashion as we know it”) makes for a vivid jumping-the-shark moment for the ’90s Supermodel. The Fashion Café would close three years later, but not before Naomi renounced her involvement by refusing to appear at events or be caught dead in the midtown restaurant. A promotional leather jacket from Fashion Café cost $1,500, whereas the most expensive item on the menu would set you back $18.95.

+ WATCH FASHION CAFÉ


DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: BAD ETIQUETTE AT SHOWS

sibyl buck

Model Sibyl Buck gives her opinion on bad fashion show etiquette at New York Fashion Week in 1995.
Photo: MTV

This is the turning point in our Fashion Week coverage, as House of Style keeps it all too real regarding the drawbacks of the event. There are definitely some ugly moments in championing beautiful design, and we actually get to hear how loud it is in the press risers and backstage at the show. Wavy-haired, power-drunk producers and security people are rude and flagrantly abusive. People get trampled as spectators exit and enter the spaces. We even hear from Sibyl Buck that she and other models suspect designers of recycling used G-strings, and there’s a moment of Sandra Bernhard losing her mind at Michael Musto on the topic of sexuality. After the mayhem, however, everyone comments on how low-key this season has been compared to others. We get the impression that Fashion Week is like childbirth. Everyone forgets how excruciating it all is the moment it’s over.

+ WATCH FASHION WEEK ETIQUETTE


DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: TRENDS OF FALL 1995

marc jacobs

Marc Jacobs had the best suits of the Fall 1995 collections.
Photo: MTV

It’s all about the headkerchief in every fabric from cotton to leather. The models at Miu Miu are morose. Marc Jacobs and other designers celebrate the lady and show a great deal of shrewdly cut suits without any of the vestigial influence of the ’80s power suit. There is, of course, the deeply upsetting ubiquity of the most fuggo shoe silhouette from the mid-’90s: the calf-length boot with a kitten heel. Barf. Also, CANKLES.

+ WATCH '95 FALL FASHION SHOWS


+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 39

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Featured Comment

I love these two as a couple. What a festive way to celebrate two important events in their life. Mariah looks like a dream.

Posted by Journey on Mariah Carey And Nick Cannon Shut Down Disneyland To Renew Vows In Cinderella-Themed Ensembles
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