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dee dee ramone

Musician Dee Dee Ramone gets a makeover from designer Paul Smith in 1989.
Photo: MTV

Season: 1 Episode: 2
Title: Fall '89
Original Airdate: 8/26/89
Appearances: Dee Dee Ramone, Paul Smith, Jean Paul Gaultier

MUSIC AND FASHION: DEE DEE RAMONE GETS A PAUL SMITH MAKEOVER

Much has changed in the decades following the second episode of HOS, particularly the number of talented people who have passed since 1989. Among them is Dee Dee Ramone, bassist for the iconoclastic punk rock band The Ramones, who in this clip gets a makeover courtesy of the designer Paul Smith. Spoiler: It is AMAZING.

The allure of juxtaposing the punk rock bassist with the buttoned-up British clothier is pretty obvious, but the degree to which Smith and Ramone enjoy each other's company is a thrill. The segment begins with Dee Dee rolling out of bed, lighting a cigarette, drinking a Diet Coke and then rolling up to the Paul Smith flagship in mirrored aviator glasses, slicked-back hair, torn jeans and a heavily embellished vest with no shirt. It is crucial to note how hot he looks. Take a moment should you need to.

It’s a lovefest. Dee Dee makes a beeline for a jacket, strokes it and realizes that it's cashmere. This acts as some sort of signal because from there on out, Smith and Ramone are turned out and besotted with each other. Smith, for all his pointed Englishness, is not a stuffed shirt and the peacock-ish pieces he selects for the Pygmalion-ing are right up Dee Dee’s alley.

Smith (who looks fantastic in a red shirt with impossibly long collar tips, and a yellow polka dotted tie tucked into the shirt as if he’s a banker dining in a restaurant or a waiter at an up-market steak house) chooses a vest adorned with framed portraits of Indian deities, a shawl-collar tuxedo that fits the bassist like a dream, especially when paired with a burlap Guatemalan cumberbund. An additional vest is festooned with printed pheasant feathers. Then there’s the pièce de resistance: a neon pink raincoat.

Honestly, it’s basically every girl’s Pretty Woman shopping-montage fantasy, except with two hardcore, grown dudes who quite clearly want to draw cartoon hearts and emoji faces all over each other.

+ WATCH DEE DEE RAMONE'S MAKEOVER


MUSIC AND FASHION: HIP-HOP STYLE

dapper dan harlem

Dapper Dan in his store in 1989.
Photo: MTV

Hip-hop fashion in 1989 was marvelous and, given House of Style's base of operation, very New York-centric. We start with a talking head piece featuring Monica Lynch, the president of Tommy Boy Records (then home to De La Soul, Digital Underground, Biz Markie, House of Pain, Naughty By Nature), Russell Simmons, DMC, Posdnous, Trugoy and Queen Latifah, but it also includes a brief interview with fashion designer Dapper Dan. As immortalized in rap lyrics like “Wear a G on my chest I don’t need Dapper Dan” by Jay-Z, Dapper Dan is not to be confused with the boss of the Minnesotan Irish mob, Dapper Danny Hogan. Though, to be fair, both were very fancy.

Dan ran an atelier in Harlem that was open 24 hours a day, and his bespoke suits, that featured allover Louis Vuitton or Gucci monograms play a major part on various Eric B. and Rakim album covers. Any time you see Justin Bieber in allover MCM, consider it a hat tip to Dan. Speaking of which, remember when JB bought GF Selena all those monogram purses, too? Monica Lynch nutshells it perfectly: “Whatever the kids in hip-hop are starting today is what middle America is going to be wearing tomorrow.” Apparently, it’s also what Canadian megastars will elect to wear over two decades later.

MUSIC AND FASHION: THE MULTIMILLION DOLLAR MERCHANDISING MACHINE

metallica concert t-shirts

Rock 'n roll merchandising and big hair in 1989.
Photo: MTV

Back in the day, there were two behemoths in the multi-million-dollar music merch industry: Winterland and Brockum. “We’re kinda the Coca-Cola and Pepsi of the industry,” says Dell Furano, president of the West Coast-based Winterland. (Brockum was on the east.) Winterland peddled merch for Springsteen, Madonna and George Michael, while Brockum screen-printed tees for Guns ’N Roses, The Rolling Stones and Metallica.

We take a tour through both facilities, featuring cult collectibles like the “Metallican,” the Japan-only Metallica CD packaging that came in a can; and the Michael Jackson boxset book that was released when the King of Pop was at his prime. Roger Gorman, principal designer for the project, recalls what it was like to work on such a high-profile project: “I spent a day with [Michael Jackson], and we went through about 4,000 slides. He has a strong idea of what he wants in the book.” You couldn’t rely on the same degree of involvement for all the acts, Gorman tells us. “There are strange situations," he says. "Sometimes you don’t like a lot of the work and all of it rests on the approval of one...band member’s girlfriend.”

Despite the secondary market potential for a vintage Sugarcubes tee, Winterland is now defunct. The company declared bankruptcy twice despite $105 million in sales in 1996. The Brockum Group is dunzo, too: The company was bought out and eventually dissolved by BMG.

+ WATCH ROCK N' ROLL MERCHANDISING


MUSIC AND FASHION: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER’S SHORT-LIVED MUSIC CAREER

jean paul gaultier how to do that

Jean Paul Gaultier's music video, "How To Do That" in 1989.
Photo: MTV

At the end of this episode, we’re treated to a music video by French designer and “enfant terrible” Jean Paul Gaultier. His dance single, “How To Do That,” was released in 1989 on Fontana Records. It was then remixed as “Aow Tou Dou Zat” (amazing), which was subsequently released on Mercury. The video was directed by esteemed fashion photographer and videographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino, who famously directed Don Henley’s “The Boys of Summer” and would go on to direct “Manchild” by Neneh Cherry, “Justify My Love” by Madonna and Björk’s “Violently Happy.” There’s really not much else to say beyond “gold thimble manicure,” “CLASSIC JPG cage dress,” “curlicue 3D braids” and “cigarettes galore,” because you should just get into the images. For those interested in seeing the whole thing (and have the time and funds to travel), check out the extensive and incredible JPG exhibition in San Francisco's de Young museum where they have this jam playing on a loop. It will melt your face straight off. Just, you know, do it before August 29.

+ WATCH JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: "HOW TO DO THAT"


+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 2

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carolyn murphy

Model Carolyn Murphy on the runway in 1996.
Photo: MTV

Season: 8 Episode: 46
Title: January Edition
Original Airdate: 1/29/96
Appearances: Carolyn Murphy, Spacehog, Lauren Martinez and Anne Christensen ('Vogue')

MODELS, THE NEXT GENERATION: CAROLYN MURPHY

This shouldn’t be taken as an invective against Carolyn Murphy’s character but this interview kinda bums me out. The model is extremely versatile, and both Joe Zee (then associate fashion editor at W) and makeup artist Laura Mercier mention in voiceovers that a large part of her magic is that you can do anything with her. They praise her look for essentially being a blank canvas. Carolyn Murphy is beautiful, and I like her hair and the throwback Prada spring 1996 suiting that she’s wearing here. I even like her print campaign from the season, as I do all of the ads she appeared in for Versace, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Estee Lauder, Tiffany & Co., Calvin Klein and Max Mara over the years.

The issue is that I don't love her. Her face is hard to read. I believe that she was a tomboy as she recounts in our interview, but I don’t believe her older brother gives her swirlies on her visits home. The expectations for what models say in mainstream broadcast interviews are very much established at this point, and even though you feel Todd's warmth there’s nothing in this interview that feels special or revealing. I miss Naomi in zit cream talking about her future husband.

+ WATCH CAROLYN MURPHY


MUSIC AND FASHION: SHOPPING WITH SPACEHOG

spacehog

Brothers Royston and Antony Langdon of Spacehog at Smilin' Nylon in New York City in 1996.
Photo: MTV

Most of what I know about Spacehog comes from Liv Tyler's five year-marriage to bass player and singer Royston Langdon. That said, this segment is charming. There isn’t too much of a service element, since it’s basically about a bunch of English dudes riffing on clothes they’re obviously not keen on wearing for real, but the camaraderie is entertaining, and we get to look at some great New York stores when W. 8th Street was a whole different story, before NYU set on it like a boa constrictor swallowing an egg. Here we have Antony Langdon, Jonny Cragg, the aforementioned Royston and Richard Steel at a now defunct store called Smiling Nylon and The Eye, an aptly named eyeglasses boutique. It is a romp through “very lurid,” gender-bendy, flammable clothing and bug-eyed sunglasses.

+ WATCH SPACEHOGS SHOPPING


DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: RAIDING THE 'VOGUE' FASHION CLOSET

anne christensen lauren martinez

'Vogue' Fashion Editor Anne Christensen and Senior Market Editor Lauren Martinez in the 'Vogue' fashion closet in 1996.
Photo: MTV

OK, this is not the fashion closet of Ugly Betty’s Mode magazine. Nor is this the well-lit, rack-filled paradise in a fantasy Vogue that pays Carrie Bradshaw $5/word. This is the real-life Vogue closet (before such closet tours were everywhere on the internet and demanded that all your sneakers be color-coordinated in tidy cubbies… ahem, GQ) and the tour is conducted by the lovely Anne Christensen (presently the Executive Fashion Director at Glamour) and Lauren Martinez (who, in a particularly fashiony move would go on to marry a Dupont [of the textile magnate Duponts]). The lighting is suboptimal and there are moments when the room is reminiscent of a grandparent’s attic, but we do get a lovely look at the mixed prints, shrunken sweaters, dyed leathers and retro colors that were huge in spring 1996.

Speaking of grandparents’ attics, many of the clothes harken back to the browns, moss greens and burnt oranges of the polyester housedresses and retro kitchen appliances ubiquitous in previous decades, and it’s interesting to see how the runway shows of the year are celebrating clothes that look thrifted and are mismatched. Spring 1996 fashion in a nutshell? The ouroboros of a Vogue editor wearing a beautiful Prada coat that looks like it came from a charity shop advising us on how to thrift a similar look. Where is Todd Oldham when you need him?

+ WATCH THE 'VOGUE' CLOSET


DEMYSTIFYING THE FASHION INDUSTRY: TOM FORD KILLS IT AT GUCCI

tom ford gucci

Model Linda Evangelista in Gucci by Tom Ford in 1996.
Photo: MTV

As a huge Madonna fan, I was absolutely blown away by how incredible she looked at the 1995 VMAs, when she rocked up to the stage in a satin turquoise Gucci blouse unbuttoned to reveal a sheer bra, and low-slung black trousers, with her blonde hair pouffed and pinned in a half pony. It was fashion magic. Tom Ford had been hired as the Creative Director for Gucci in 1994, and during his first several seasons, he was a beast who seemed to know exactly what type of sexiness we wanted from the then somewhat fusty Italian fashion brand and leather goods label.

Ford came out of the gate hard, channeling the enthusiasm for retro-chic with slightly belled sleeves on micro-mini dresses; sumptuous fabrics like satin and burnout velvet; and wickedly cut trousers. THe knew that a wrapped leather cord that resembled a bolo would look cool and ease us out of our choker rut and injected real glamour back into the house during a time when everyone else was doing quirk. His ads, styled by Carine Roitfeld and shot by Mario Testino, were impeccable, and between 1995 and 1996, the company’s sales increased by 90%.

This runway footage is a continuation of an aesthetic and attitude that Tom Ford mastered during his tenure at the label.

+ WATCH TOM FORD FOR GUCCI


MUSIC AND FASHION: THE FIRST FASHIONABLY LOUD

shalom harlow

Model Shalom Harlow walks in the first Fashionably Loud in 1996.
Photo: MTV

The marriage of music and fashion culminates in the first “Fashionably Loud” that aired in February, 1996. This clip is regrettably brief because of various licensing issues but we thought we’d at least give you a quick glimpse if for no other reason than to see Brandy Norwood walk a runway. It was an-hour long MTV show and for this inaugural event, Chris Isaak hosted. There were models galore with Cindy, Shalom, Amber,Helena, Kate, Linda, Naomi as well as musician-turned-model Debbie Harry. Milla Jovovich our stunning special correspondent pulled double duty to walk and interview audience members.

The designing lineup was just as stellar with collections from Marc Jacobs, Todd Oldham and Anna Sui. The models walked in time to live performances from Coolio, Filter and Elastica (MAJOR girlcrush on Justine Frischmann [ed note: UM, remember when she dated Brett Anderson and founded Suede and then dated Damon Albarn from Blur and inspired a GRIP of music and then co-wrote Arular with her roomie M.I.A? No? Learn about it. Stat.). Totally going to go off and listen to “Connection” right now. That guitar riff is EVERYTHING.

+ WATCH FASHIONABLY LOUD


+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 46

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puffy

Rapper Puff Daddy picks out an outfit for the 1997 MTV Video Music Awards.
Photo: MTV

Season: 9 Episode: 62
Title: 1997 VMA Special: "Let Me Just Slip Into Something Incredibly Uncomfortable..."
Original Airdate: 9/5/97
Appearances: Puff Daddy

MUSIC AND FASHION: PUFF DADDY PICKS OUT HIS VMAs OUTFIT

When Puff Daddy was still called Puff Daddy, back in 1997, long before his clothing line Sean John won a CFDA, he was infinitely more ostentatious. To prep for the VMAs, we pick him up at his yacht, where he’s soaking in a hot tub with his son Justin and stepson Quincy. If you’re a fan of My Super Sweet 16, you can gauge how long ago this was by how little and adorable the two are. We squire the three men off in a black stretch limousine to hit the boutiques in search for multiple outfits for Puff, since the rap mogul is feeling himself in a “male Diana Ross” mode: He needs a rehearsal outfit, a red carpet outfit, a performance outfit and a “sitting down in my seat oufit.”

First, we go to Prada, where a collegiate look (slacks, sweater, white shirt and a thick, cumbersome necktie) is deemed too preppy. Puff opts for a brown leather car coat instead. At Gucci, he picks up some logo hardware loafers and mentions that he likes an element of Elton John and Liberace in his style. He enjoys logos on his clothes, despite the tackiness. A dark blue, shiny shirt is also copped because it looks good against the moon man. A jet-black suit, double-breasted but with a concealed placket, is also purchased.

At Versace, Puff swoons over a suede suit with a long jacket, and notes how beautifully the Italian house’s garments always fit.

It’s interesting that this was the heyday of conspicuous consumption in rap, as lyrics shifted to include Italian and Parisian fashion brand names. It was also the beginning of the "Shiny Suit" era, which Puff, Ma$e and Hype Williams set off with the “Mo Money Mo Problems” video, styled by June Ambrose. Originally, the director wanted leather suits, but June won, and the ensembles that spawned a thousand glinting replicas were born. “With the metallic suit, it was [convincing] Puffy, this hip-hop artist, that this was going to be impactful,” she says. “I showed him the red metallic and he says, ‘I am not wearing that. I was like, ‘Please trust me.’ I had to make one red leather outfit and one metallic leather outfit and… I won!”

Blessedly, Diddy has since grown partial to classic tuxedos, narrow lapel suits, cashmere sweaters, black tees, and varsity jackets, with only the occasional sparks of flamboyance in his flashy outerwear — no more reflective clothing or oversized dyed leather jackets.

+ WATCH PUFF DADDY SHOP FOR THE '97 VMAS

+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 62

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lil kim

Rapper Lil Kim models fabulous summer swimsuits in 2000.
Photo: MTV

Season: 12 Episode: 71
Title: Sexy Summer Layout
Original Airdate: 5/17/00
Sightings: Lil Kim, Molly Sims, Cynthia Rowley

MUSIC AND FASHION: LIL KIM TRIES ON BATHING SUITS

lil kim

Rapper Lil Kim models fabulous summer swimsuits in 2000.
Photo: MTV

OK, so hardcore Lil Kim Stans are going to bug, because here is Queen Bee, right before the release of her Notorious K.I.M. album, and she’s modeling her favorite swimsuits of the season. First of all, Kim’s body is BANGING. Serving obliques for days. And this is without airbrushing or anything. Anyone who’s a fan of wigs or gaudy bathing suits circa 2000 will adore this clip as well, since Kim kicks it off in a Gucci monogram trench coat in the classic colors. First, there’s a bright orange cut-out one-piece that covers the navel, but is low-slung enough to accentuate her hips. Accessories are added, and a vibrant, layered wig. Then all practicality is jettisoned in the name of looking fly, because the next one is a turquoise, bedazzled, SUEDE bikini with a matching prehistoric-looking sarong, a matching wig (that I’m also positive she wore for the XXL cover where she’s covered in soap suds) , and a frosted lip. Then there’s a turquoise python bikini with, wait for it, puffs of furry mink at the ties.

lil kim

Rapper Lil Kim models fabulous summer swimsuits in 2000.
Photo: MTV

A black Dolce & Gabbana bikini is offered up as a dressier option, since it features pearl necklaces that encircle the waist. Finally, a patent leather embossed crocodile boy short situation is deemed "great for parties." The cut is trendy for the season, and the extra coverage is suitable for the outdoors (at least it is according to Kim).

Kim then shills her album, dropping in mere weeks, and it’s weird to take stock of how much the House of Style has changed as interest in models waned. What would have normally been a magazine shoot with a behind-the-scenes element about the photographer is now a standalone video editorial with a performer who has the added agenda of publicizing a project. The celebrity of a model no longer holds the same cachet with our audience.

+ WATCH LIL' KIM MODEL SWIMSUITS

+ CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM EPISODE 71

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MTV Style follows how people express themselves through fashion and beauty, from our favorite pop culture icons to you, the reader. We cover the fun, loud side of the industry with news, trends, interviews, videos, and more — MTV Style is fashion at full volume.

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Featured Comment

I love these two as a couple. What a festive way to celebrate two important events in their life. Mariah looks like a dream.

Posted by Journey on Mariah Carey And Nick Cannon Shut Down Disneyland To Renew Vows In Cinderella-Themed Ensembles
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